Some answers to popular questions, as well as a few tips and tricks for budding photographers.
Can I make a purchase in person?
Absolutely. Just click on the "EVENTS" tab to see which art shows are coming up that you could meet me at, or click the "CONTACT" tab to reach me directly.
Do you print on glass?
Edwin Glass is actually just my name and Photography is the game.
BUT if you really love photos that are printed directly on glass, I can reach out to my pals at Fracture and make one special for you. Always happy to accomodate however I can!
What kinds of media can you print on?
I can print just about any kind of media under the sun:
- Alumminum (which is my #1 go-to)
- Vinyl and Adhesives
- PVC and other types of Plastics
- Apparel and all types of Tchotchkes
What is the largest size that you can print?
For most media, I can print as large as 4ft. x 8ft. on a single piece of material. So pretty big.
Otherwise, I can always segment multple sections of a photo to cover a much larger space, such as a vinyl wall wrap.
Do you print everything yourself?
All online orders are fulfilled by my production partners and shipped direct to you. My website is built primarily to help make this process easier for you, if you don't live in Helena, or want something more specific or customized than what I keep on-hand.
However, if you come see me in person at any event, everything there is, in fact, printed by me and through my own custom printing business: Design Labs of Montana, LLC.
You can check out all of my graphics and marketing capabilities at www.DesignLabsMT.com
Could you print my own photography for me too?
I absolutely love supporting other photographers. And if I can help you snag a better deal to save more money AND earn more money for your work, then that's what it's all about!
Kindly direct all of those inquiries to my custom printing biz: Design Labs of Montana, LLC: www.DesignLabsMT.com
Primarily, I use my Nikon Z7, which I absolutly adore.
Additionally I also have a Nikon D3500 and D3400 I use when shooting events.
I have a variety of F-mount and Z-mount lenses, but my favorite tends to be my NIKKOR 50mm prime f/1.8 FX S-line Z lens. You just can't beat the "nifty fifty" with it's versatility and lower F-stop capabilities.
I also have a NIKKOR 24-70mm FX, a NIKKOR 70-200mm DX, a TTArtisan wide-angle fisheye lens, and a Sigma 150-500mm. These lenses help me capture many of my nature scenes, as I often rotate different lenses through my kit, depending on what I'm hiking that day, and what I'm expecting to find.
How do you take your long-exposure water photos?
I've discovered that neutral density filters are a must. You can go without an ND filter, sure. But having the ND filter provides you with much more freedom to customize the photo however you like.
You can get away with some fairly inexpensive ND filters if you're a beginner, but it's worth upgrading to higher-quality filters as your gear as your skills upgrade too.
K&F Concept carries a good selection of entry-level filters, as well as some higher-end options.
B&H Photo is also a great source for gear.
I line up, frame, and focus the shot I want, prior to attaching the filter.
My shutter speed for capturing water in motion can range between 2 seconds (2") or 8 seconds (8"), often with my ISO at the lowest setting. You can also adjust your aperture to deepen your focal range and darken your photo a bit more as needed.
If you wish to turn rippling, or more turbulent water into a smooth reflective glass, then go for a 30 second (30") exposure, or more, instead. And that should help cut out any unwanted movement in the water. Depending on the wind, this could also harm the rest of the composition with extra motion blur.
How do you do astrophotography?
Astrophotography is one of the most complex photography methods to properly take and put together. I'm constantly learning every time I try to go out and shoot late at night.
Assuming the conditions are right, here's what to do...
Reduce your viewfinder and/or backscreen brightness to it's lowest setting. This prevents you from mistakenly thinking your photo is correctly exposed, because the bright screen can be misleading in the pitch black of night.
Starting with a lower aperture, around f/1.2 - f/1.8, set your ISO to anywhere between 4800 and 6400 to start with. Your exposure length should be between 8 seconds (8") and 15 seconds (15"). But note that the earth is spinning faster than you think, so depending on your lens, anything over 10 seconds (10") may begin to show star trails.
In order to focus your shots properly, put your camera into manual focus mode. Using your back buttons, hit the zoom button (the magnifying glass icon with the + sign) to zoom in on your backscreen. Find the brightest star that you can, and adjust your focus ring on the lens enough until the fuzzy orb of a star turns into a pin-point spec.
Play around, see what works best for you and adjust as needed.
Take multiple shots of the exact same image without moving the camera. Maybe adjust your White Balance settings to see how the different settings affect your image.
To get the best results, look up "Photo Stacking" to properly adjust and edit your astro-photos in post.
(I'm still very novice at astrophotography, but the more I do it, the more I learn, adjust, and improve.)
What's your favorite feature on your camera?
The histogram, by far.
This helps me ensure that I'm not blowing out my whites or darks, and ensures I'm leaving with a perfectly preserved shot. And if I can't preserve my whites and darks in a single frame, then exposure stacking is always a useful option which helps me meet it in the middle, and correct in it post.
What do you find to be the most difficult thing about photography?
I like to call myself a "photographer of convenience" because I often don't like to wait around a whole lot. Some things with photography require a lot of patience. And if you can prepare and wait for the right moment, it almost always pays off.
I'm working on the patience part more now than I used to, and I feel more grounded with my camera and gear. This is also attributed to a deeper understanding of what I'm hoping to achieve, and how best to achieve the desired results, with each and every shot.